Northwestern Superior's Best bets for 'bows
By Gord Ellis
The north shore of Lake Superior has some of the most beautiful steelhead waters in Ontario. Nestled into the glacier-scratched face of the Pre-Cambrian Shield are hundreds of pristine rivers, streams, and creeks. Most flow clean, cold, and swift, and few of them see the kind of pressure that's common on southern-Ontario streams. Though all north-shore tributaries have a spring run of Lake Superior steelhead, a handful provide the lion's share of fishing. This short list of steelhead waters between the Minnesota/Ontario border and Marathon should keep even the most picky steelheader satisfied and busy.
Pigeon River:
The Pigeon creates a physical border between Ontario and Minnesota. It has a respectable steelhead run, but as is the case with many rivers southwest of Thunder Bay, it's not popular. Perhaps the muddy colour during spring and the lack of easy-to-fish holes turn anglers away. A large falls above the bridge on Highway 61 is impassable to steelhead, so fish downstream of there. The Pigeon is large enough to handle boats, and some anglers troll here, primarily residents of Minnesota.
Pine River
Another of the area's mystery rivers, the Pine's steelhead are ignored. For the most part, the river is slow, but there are several short rapids and an impassable falls below the bridge on Highway 61. Private property borders much of the river, although it's accessible by boat from Lake Superior.
Cloud River
In the early 1970s, the Cloud was one of the premier steelhead fisheries on the north shore, and it coughed up many trophy fish. A spawned-out 16- pound (7.26 kg) hen -- a monster for Lake Superior -- was caught here in the late 1980s. Unfortunately, erosion, siltation, and countless beaver dams on its headwaters have taken a toll on the fishery. It's not what it was, but it still has a good run of steelhead. These days, most of the angling takes place below Highway 61. This river is snag-filled and turbid in spring, and perfect for the patient float angler. As is the case with most of the streams southwest of Thunder Bay, the steelhead run usually gets going here in late April and is pretty much done by the first week of May.
Kaministiquia River
This huge and historic river dominates the landscape on the west side of Thunder Bay and hosts an impressive, underutilized steelhead fishery. Little fishing is done on the Kam itself, but there are a few runs below Kakabeka Falls that hold steelhead early in the season. The power-house road in the town of Kakabeka will take you to the river. An access trail to the falls is located on the east shore. There are also several tributaries to the Kam that get good to excellent runs of steelhead. They include the Slate River, Corbett's Creek, Oliver Creek ,Whitefish River, Cedar Creek, Whitewood River, Pitch Creek, Silver Creek, and Sitch Creek. Cedar Creek and the Whitefish River have the largest runs, but by northwestern Ontario standards they're difficult to access, due to private property and farmland. Get a good map of the area. A little exploration on sideroads adjacent to these rivers can pay dividends.
Neebing River
Thanks to a flood-control diversion project, the Neebing and the McIntyre Rivers share a common rivermouth, but they separate near the Harbour Expressway and wind south and north respectively. The Neebing is the larger of the two sister rivers and is accessed easily from various locations in the south end of the city. The weir near Churchill High School is a popular fishing spot, as are rapids below the Edward Street bridge. No fishing is allowed in both areas several feet back from the blockage. The Neebing is also known for big fish; in 1990 it coughed up a 36-inch (91.5 cm) steelhead, a monster for Lake Superior flows.
McIntyre River
This is a more traditional-looking trout stream than the Neebing, and though heavily fished it has one of the larger steelhead runs in the area. Thanks to the efforts of the North Shore Steelhead Association (NSSA), in conjunction with the Ministry of Natural Resources and a few other agencies, a state-of-the-art fishway helps steelhead navigate past a dam that cut short the spawning run for many years. Prime water starts at Central Avenue and continues upstream past the golf course to the Lakehead University campus. The fishway is below Lake Tamblyn. This area is a fish sanctuary, but waters on either side of the dam are worthy of attention. Most anglers have good success drifting yarn flies or roe bags in pools and runs near the golf course.The slow, brush-lined waters below Central Ave. are the domain of float anglers
McVicar Creek
McVicar is small, but supports a decent steelhead run, due in large part to stream rehabilitation by the NSSA. Winding through the heart of Port Arthur, most of it is surrounded by a parkway. Good bets include the weir near the rivermouth off of Cumberland, the falls below Court Street, and the pools between River Street and the Algoma Street bridge.
Current River
The Current should host one of the largest steelhead runs on the north shore of Superior, but a large dam a quarter-mile up from the rivermouth blocks spawners. Still, a number of good trout are taken in the swift water below the falls every spring. And boat anglers have some success trolling with spoons at the rivermouth. Good ones to try are chartreuse Krocodiles, red and brass Tor-p-does, and pink-centered Pixies. The Current has become the pet project of the NSSA, and thanks to a new fishway at the Boulevard Lake Dam, the river should
McKenzie River
Just 15 miles (24 km) east of Thunder Bay, the MacKenzie is big and gets a respectable run of spring steelhead. It's not an easy river to walk or wade, but it offers hardy steelheaders lots of underfished water in gorgeous surroundings. The pool below the falls near the rivermouth is a popular early spring spot, but it's difficult to land trout there during high water, due to an impassable (to anglers) bridge at the base of the rapids. Lines part like rifle shots when big trout race out of the pool and head for the safety of the lake. Wading anglers also enjoy success casting hardware at the rivermouth. A well-placed spoon can even produce an occasional coaster brook trout. Near the town of Dorion, steelheaders are forced to choose between two of the best producing rainbow rivers on the north shore.
Coldwater Creek
While the Coldwater is mid-sized and muddy-banked, atypical of most north-shore flows, it has a good reputation among local steelheaders. There are lots of good pools to fish, but downstream from the Coldwater's confluence with Spring Creek is worth special attention. A culvert pool below the highway usually holds a few fish, but sees a lot of anglers. This snag-infested water is not for the impatient.
Wolf River
The Wolf is a typical free-stone trout water. The corner pool below the Trans-Canada Highway and the small falls above it see the most angling pressure, yet miles of blue-ribbon water up- and downstream from this area are accessed easily by roads. This river holds steelhead well into May, although few anglers bother with them after the long weekend. Small spinners, drifted yarn flies, and float-fished roe bags are deadly on the Wolf, as are black or brown nymph imitations.
Black Sturgeon
This huge watershed, just a few miles west of Nipigon, is the loose cannon of north-shore streams; it's prone to flooding and murky conditions. On the other hand, it consistently gives up some of the largest fish in the area. When steelhead are running, it provides unbeatable action. Pools above and below the Trans-Canada are perfect for spin- and float-fishing, but a little on the large size for most drift anglers. Other good spots to fish include riffles above the highway pool and the section of river just below the logging dam a few miles upstream. There's also fishable water below the highway, which is accessible off the Everard Road .
Nipigon River
Nipigon steelhead grow big. Most fishing takes place at Alexander Dam, located up the Pine Portage Road, but rainbow fishing is also excellent from Lake Helen to the rivermouth. Steelhead are caught here by drifting roe or by boat fishing and dropping back plugs, such as a No. 7 Shad Rap or Luhr Jensen Brush Baby, in large pools and runs. Shore anglers can try below the Trans-Canada or along the shore below Alexander Dam.
Jackpine River
The Jackpine is a classic, but was devastated in spring 1996 by high water that nearly took out the highway bridge. The slide pool directly above the bridge _ always a hotspot, has been reduced to a long riffle. All traditional holding water below the bridge is gone. Pocket water abounds, but it's a new game for steelheaders on the river. Luckily, the upper stretches, including key spawning areas, seem intact. Due to thick ice on Nipigon Bay, steelhead runs into streams east of Nipigon are generally a week later than in Thunder Bay. Consistent fishing kicks in by the second week of May.
Cypress River
It also suffered from repeated high water during the last few years. Most steelheading is done below an impassable falls a mile or so upstream. A long, wet trail on the left side of the river leads to the falls. Several of the best pools below the falls are gone or are radically changed. Because of this, big, deep pools in the middle section of the river have become better bets, especially for float anglers. Steelhead runs in the Cypress are notoriously difficult to time. You'll have to pay some dues here in some blank days.
Whitesand River
The Whitesand, or Hewtison as it is locally known, has a solid run of steelhead a few days earlier than larger rivers like the Jackpine. This is drifting water; rainbows hold in pockets and deep, short pools. Most fishing is done at the culvert below Highway 17, but there are a couple of good runs farther downstream. It's tough going above the bridge. Shore casters occasionally score here by wading out and throwing heavy spoons into the rivermouth.
Steel River
The Steel is one of the jewels of the north; it's a pristine, remote, wild steelhead fishery. A good early season bet, it can hold fresh-run fish on the first of April. Most anglers access the lower river from a trail on the east side of the Hwy. 17 bridge. A 15-minute walk takes you to Henry's Hole and several other good pools. Above the highway, look for a trail on the west side of the river. This billy-goat path is not for the faint of heart. It's a real workout. Once spring runoff is in full swing in late April, the Steel swells enormously and becomes almost impossible to fish. By the third week of May, it's usually back in shape and full of drop-back 'bows. Fishing remains good until June. Fly fishers, in particular, take advantage of these late fish. There is also a developing rivermouth fishery at the Steel and at the Prairie River, located to the east. You won't catch as many steelhead in the north as you will in the south. You might not even catch any some days. But if tranquillity, wilderness, wild steelhead, and spectacular settings play an important part in your fishing experience, a walk down any of these rivers should provide all you can handle. Spring steelheading on north-shore streams is truly superior.
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